Replacing Interior Doors: Cost and What to Consider

Replacing an interior door sounds simple — and for a straightforward, like-for-like swap, it genuinely can be. But the real cost and quality of the result depend on several things beyond the door itself: the frame, the hardware, and how precisely everything is fitted.

What's actually involved

• The door itself — flat panel (cheapest), moulded panel, or period-style (six-panel, glazed) — cost varies significantly by style and material.
• The frame — reused if it's square and in good condition, replaced if not or if the new door is a different size.
• Hardware — hinges, handle, latch, and in some cases a self-closing or fire-rated mechanism depending on the room.
• Fitting — trimming the door to fit precisely, hanging it level, and setting the hardware so it closes and latches correctly.

Typical UK costs

These are general, indicative supply-and-fit ranges — actual cost depends on door style and whether the frame needs replacing.

• Standard flat panel door (frame reused): roughly £150–£300
• Moulded or period-style door (frame reused): roughly £250–£450
• Door and frame together: roughly £350–£650
• Fire door (where required, e.g. between a garage and the house): typically a modest premium over a standard door of the same style, for the certified core and correct intumescent seals.

Labour vs materials

For a straightforward door with the frame reused, the door itself is often the smaller part of the cost — hanging a door correctly (trimming it to fit, setting hinges so it swings true, aligning the latch with the keep in the frame) is skilled, fiddly work that takes real time to do well. This is why a cheap door fitted badly can end up costing more in the long run than a mid-range door fitted properly the first time.

How long it takes

A single door with the frame reused is typically a half-day job including trimming and hanging. Replacing the frame as well usually takes a full day per door, since the frame has to be fitted square and plumb before the door itself can be hung. Replacing several doors in one visit is usually quicker per door than booking them separately, for the same reason as any carpentry work — one setup, several jobs.

Preparing for the work

• Clear the room on both sides of the door — carpenters need space to manoeuvre the old door out and the new one in.
• Decide on handle and hinge finish in advance if you're being particular about matching existing hardware elsewhere in the house.
• If you're changing from a hollow door to a solid one, mention this upfront — it can affect whether the existing frame and hinges are suitable.

Why doors don't always close properly after fitting

A door that sticks, doesn't latch, or swings open on its own is almost always a fitting issue rather than a fault with the door — the door wasn't trimmed correctly, the hinges weren't set precisely, or (very common in older properties) the frame itself is slightly out of square and the door needs to be adjusted to compensate rather than hung dead straight. This is exactly the kind of precision work that's harder to get right without the right tools and experience — see our carpentry costs guide for more on why precision fitting costs what it does.

Reusing the existing frame

If the existing frame is square, undamaged and the right size for the new door, reusing it is a genuine, sensible way to reduce both cost and disruption. It's not always possible — an out-of-square or damaged frame, or a significant style change (e.g. moving from a hollow flush door to a heavier solid panel door), often means the frame needs replacing too.

Matching the rest of the house

If you're replacing one door, it's worth deciding upfront whether you want it to match the existing doors elsewhere in the property or whether this is the start of a wider update — replacing doors one at a time in a different style than the rest of the house is a common thing people later wish they'd planned differently.

Common mistakes

• Buying the door before checking the opening. Standard door sizes vary, and older properties in particular often have non-standard openings — measure first.
• Forgetting fire door requirements. Doors leading to an integral garage, and sometimes doors onto an escape route in a converted or multi-storey property, may need to be fire-rated — check before ordering a standard door for these locations.
• Assuming a sticking door just needs planing down. Sometimes it does, but a door that's sticking badly is often telling you the frame has moved slightly (common in older or settling properties) — worth a proper look rather than repeatedly planing the same edge.

Getting it done properly

See our full carpentry and joinery costs guide for how door replacement compares to other carpentry work, and our guide on built-in wardrobes if you're considering other fitted joinery at the same time.