Artificial Grass Installation: What's Involved and How Long Does It Take?

A properly installed artificial lawn typically takes 1-3 days for an average UK garden, depending on size and ground conditions — most of that time goes into groundwork (excavation and sub-base preparation) rather than laying the turf itself, which is actually one of the quicker steps. Rushing the groundwork is the single biggest cause of artificial lawns that look uneven, drain poorly, or develop dips within a year or two.

The installation process, step by step

• 1. Excavation. The existing lawn and topsoil are removed, typically to a depth of around 75-100mm, to make room for the sub-base. This is genuinely hard, time-consuming work for a decent-sized lawn if done by hand.
• 2. Sub-base installation. A layer of compacted hardcore or crushed stone (often MOT type 1) is laid and compacted, sometimes followed by a finer levelling layer of sharp sand or granite dust. This sub-base is what actually holds the shape and drainage of the finished lawn — the turf on top is largely cosmetic by comparison.
• 3. Weed membrane. A weed-suppressant membrane goes over the compacted sub-base to stop weeds growing up through the joints of the artificial turf.
• 4. Laying the turf. The artificial grass is rolled out, cut to fit the space (allowing it to settle and relax for a short period before final trimming reduces the risk of visible seams), and joined where multiple rolls meet using jointing tape and adhesive for a seamless look.
• 5. Securing the edges. The perimeter is fixed down, typically with galvanised nails or a timber edging, to stop the edges lifting or curling over time.
• 6. Infill and brushing. A sand or rubber crumb infill is brushed into the pile — this helps the blades stand upright, adds weight to hold the turf in place, and improves drainage. A final brush sets the pile direction for the finished look.

Realistic timeline

For an average garden (roughly 30-50 square metres), expect groundwork and excavation to take the bulk of the time — often a full day or more — with laying, jointing and finishing typically achievable in the following day. Larger or more complex gardens (multiple sections, curved edges, obstacles like trees or drain covers to work around) can take longer. Weather matters too: excavation and sub-base work is best done in dry conditions, since a waterlogged sub-base won't compact properly.

DIY or professional?

A small, simple, flat area is achievable as a DIY project for someone willing to do the physical groundwork properly and follow the process above rather than skipping steps. Larger areas, sloped gardens, or anywhere with existing drainage issues are usually better handled by an experienced installer, both for the physical labour involved and because getting the sub-base wrong is expensive to fix once the turf is down.

Common mistakes

• Skipping or skimping on the sub-base — this is by far the most common DIY mistake, and the one most likely to cause visible problems (dips, poor drainage, an uneven surface) within the first year or two.
• Not allowing turf to acclimatise before final trimming, which can lead to gaps appearing at joints or edges as the material settles.
• Poor drainage planning. Artificial grass needs to drain properly beneath the surface — laying it over compacted clay or a non-permeable sub-base without adequate drainage provision can leave the lawn waterlogged after heavy rain.
• Using too little infill, which leaves the pile looking flat and the turf less stable underfoot.

If you're still deciding between artificial and real grass, see our comparison of artificial vs real grass costs and practicalities first.

Working around existing garden features

Trees, drain covers, manholes and existing planting borders all need to be worked around during installation, and each adds time and complexity. Tree roots close to the surface can make achieving a level sub-base difficult without damaging the tree — a qualified installer will know how to work around this without compromising root health, which matters both for the tree's survival and because damaging protected tree roots can have legal consequences. Drain covers and manholes need to remain accessible, which usually means cutting the turf carefully around a removable cover rather than turfing directly over it.

What a good installation should include in writing

Before work starts, a reputable installer should specify in writing: the sub-base depth and material to be used, the specific artificial grass product (pile height, density, and backing type), how joints will be finished, the infill type and quantity, and what guarantee applies to both the product and the installation workmanship separately — these are often different warranty periods, and it's worth understanding both before committing. Reasonable UK installation guarantees on workmanship are typically in the region of 5-10 years, alongside separate manufacturer warranties on the turf product itself, often longer.

Finally, ask what happens to the excavated soil and old turf — a good installer will have a plan for removing and disposing of it responsibly, and this should be confirmed and included in your quote rather than left as an assumption.